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P7YRU1H6 |
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MEDIUM WALL PACK INSTALLATION GUIDE
(WTM-TZP-70600-4Y/5Y)
PLEASE READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE ATTEMPTING INSTALLATION
1. To avoid electric shock, disconnect power at source prior to installation.
1. Junction box Mounting
1. Loosen screws and remove the front lens set carefully from the back plate.
![]()
2. Drill appropriate knockouts (B) for wiring, the fixture supports standard 3 1/4' and 4" Junction box.
![]()
3. Attach the back plate on the wall use the supplied gaskets for a weather tight seal
![]()
4. Finish wiring (Black for Line, White for Neutral and Green/Yellow wire for Ground).
![]()
5. Replace the lens on the hinges, make connections and close the lens set then tighten the screws.
![]() 2. Conduit Mounting
1. Loosen screws and remove the front lens set carefully from the back plate.(See step 1 above)
2. Remove 1/2 'plug from where you intend to feed conduit ![]()
3. Drilling out the holes (C) to secure it on the wall with choosing proper screws.
4. Finish wiring (Black for line, White for neutral and Green/Yellow for ground). (See step 4 above) ![]()
5. Replace the lens on the hinges, make connections and close the lens set and tighten the screws to fasten the lens set to the back plate.
![]()
Save the environment, your children and the planet
500 North Dixie Hwy, #8, Hollywood, FL 33020 – (844).533.7230
Contact@ledradiant.com – www.ledradiant.com ![]()
5 YEAR WARRANTY POLICY
For Commercial LED Lamps and fixtures
• This warranty policy is valid only for products sold in The United States of America.
• Products have been purchased directly from a LEDRadiant (sales) organization. • Proof of purchase is available for inspection by LEDRadiant. • Products have been properly installed and operated in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. • More than 10% of the LED chips are not properly working. • A LEDRadiant representative will have access to the defective Products. • If the Products or other parts become suspect, the representative shall have the right to invite other manufacturers’ representatives to evaluate the lighting systems. • Shipping and Labor costs for installation of the Products are not covered under this warranty. This warranty is valid for order number: By LEDRadiant
Save the environment, your children and the planet
500 North Dixie Hwy, #8, Hollywood, FL 33020 – (844).533.7230
Contact@ledradiant.com – www.ledradiant.com |
Rate |
---|
For those of you who need to understand this new world of LED lighting, there is some vocabulary you will need to know. We have given you some terminology that will help you understand what its all about.
LED
LED stands for "light emitting diode." A diode is an electrical component with two terminals which conduct the electricity only in one direction. With an electrical current, the diode emits a bright light around the small bulb.
Lumens vs Watts
LEDs that are bright enough to replace incandescents for business that is, producing the same number of lumens as standard 40- or 60-watt bulbs---typically only use 9 to 12 watts. The U.S. Department of Energy advises that business that want to replace a 60-watt bulb should look for an LED that produces close to 800 lumens; for a 40-watt bulb, look for 450 lumens.
Ballast
In a fluorescent lighting system, the ballast regulates the current to the lamps and provides sufficient voltage to start the lamps. Without a ballast to limit its current, a fluorescent lamp connected directly to a high voltage power source would rapidly and uncontrollably increase its current draw. Within a second the lamp would overheat and burn out.
Thee are several types of ballasts,
Instant start
An instant start ballast does not preheat the electrodes, instead using a relatively high voltage (~600 V) to initiate the discharge arc. It is the most energy efficient type, but yields the fewest lamp-start cycles, as material is blasted from the surface of the cold electrodes each time the lamp is turned on. Instant-start ballasts are best suited to applications with long duty cycles, where the lamps are not frequently turned on and off.
Rapid start
A rapid start ballast applies voltage and heats the cathodes simultaneously. It provides superior lamp life and more cycle life, but uses slightly more energy as the cathodes in each end of the lamp continue to consume heating power as the lamp operates. A dimming circuit can be used with a dimming ballast, which maintains the heating current while allowing lamp current to be controlled.
Programmed start
A programmed-start ballast is a more advanced version of rapid start. This ballast applies power to the filaments first, it allows the cathodes to preheat and then applies voltage to the lamps to strike an arc. Lamp life typically operates up to 100,000 on/off cycles when using programmed start ballasts. Once started, filament voltage is reduced to increase operating efficiency.[5] This ballast gives the best life and most starts from lamps, and so is preferred for applications with very frequent power cycling such as vision examination rooms and restrooms with a motion detector switch.
Hybrid
A hybrid ballast has a magnetic core-and-coil transformer and an electronic switch for the electrode-heating circuit. Like a magnetic ballast, a hybrid unit operates at line power frequency—60 Hz in North America, for example. These types of ballasts, which are also referred to as “cathode-disconnect ballasts”, disconnect the electrode-heating circuit after they start the lamps.
HID/HPS
High Intensity Discharge bulb. These include the Metal Halide (MH) and High Presure Sodium (HPS) among other types of bulbs that use a mixture of gases that when electrically excited produce an arc that emmits light.
The color of the light depends on the gases used in the arc tube.
UL
Underwriters Laboratory is the certification which indicates that a product meets certain standards that conform with insurance company requirements for safety. An LED bulb without this designation is not of high enough quality for insurance purposes and usually indicates an inferior product.
Kwh
Kilowatt per hour is how you are billed by your electric company. There is a cost per Kwh on your electric bill.
Index A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P R S T U V W
Hue: Describes the situation when the appearance of different colors is similar (e.g. matching blues and pinks).
Lightness: Describes a range of grayness between black and white.
Chroma: Describes the degree of departure from gray of the same lightness and increasing color (e.g. red, redder, pure red).
L70
L70 describes the brightness of an LED after a number of hours – often 50,000. If a product claims L70 after 50,000 hours, it means that after 50,000 hours of burning (nearly six years if the lights are on 24/7) the lights are now 70% as bright as they were when they were first installed. L70 doesn’t mean anything without the corresponding number of hours. You may also see terms such as L70 at 6,000 hours. Sometimes manufacturers will list L80 (or even L90) at 50,000 hours. This simply means that after 50,000 hours, the LEDs will be 80% (or 90%) as bright as they were initially. Be careful not to confuse L70 with LM79 or LM80.
This IES document applies to LED fixtures (but not to components.) It prescribes the approved method for “Electrical and Photometric Measurements of Solid-State Lighting Products.” In the beginning, LED products were the wild, wild west. Manufacturers claimed just about anything based on their own personal “test procedures.” LM79 gave structure to the chaos and today LM79 compliance can help ensure that you are comparing apples to apples when you read LED product literature.
This IES (Illuminating Engineering Society of North America)document describes the approved method for “Measuring Lumen Maintenance of LED Light Sources.” It applies to bare LED light sources and does not cover complete luminaires (fixtures.) The main story here is usable life. LED sources, like the old metal halide lamps, tend to fade over life instead of “burning out.” Again, when manufacturers are using the same test methodology, you can be comfortable when comparing products.
P7YRU1H6 |
![]()
MEDIUM WALL PACK INSTALLATION GUIDE
(WTM-TZP-70600-4Y/5Y)
PLEASE READ ALL INSTRUCTIONS BEFORE ATTEMPTING INSTALLATION
1. To avoid electric shock, disconnect power at source prior to installation.
1. Junction box Mounting
1. Loosen screws and remove the front lens set carefully from the back plate.
![]()
2. Drill appropriate knockouts (B) for wiring, the fixture supports standard 3 1/4' and 4" Junction box.
![]()
3. Attach the back plate on the wall use the supplied gaskets for a weather tight seal
![]()
4. Finish wiring (Black for Line, White for Neutral and Green/Yellow wire for Ground).
![]()
5. Replace the lens on the hinges, make connections and close the lens set then tighten the screws.
![]() 2. Conduit Mounting
1. Loosen screws and remove the front lens set carefully from the back plate.(See step 1 above)
2. Remove 1/2 'plug from where you intend to feed conduit ![]()
3. Drilling out the holes (C) to secure it on the wall with choosing proper screws.
4. Finish wiring (Black for line, White for neutral and Green/Yellow for ground). (See step 4 above) ![]()
5. Replace the lens on the hinges, make connections and close the lens set and tighten the screws to fasten the lens set to the back plate.
![]()
Save the environment, your children and the planet
500 North Dixie Hwy, #8, Hollywood, FL 33020 – (844).533.7230
Contact@ledradiant.com – www.ledradiant.com ![]()
5 YEAR WARRANTY POLICY
For Commercial LED Lamps and fixtures
• This warranty policy is valid only for products sold in The United States of America.
• Products have been purchased directly from a LEDRadiant (sales) organization. • Proof of purchase is available for inspection by LEDRadiant. • Products have been properly installed and operated in accordance with the manufacturer’s instructions. • More than 10% of the LED chips are not properly working. • A LEDRadiant representative will have access to the defective Products. • If the Products or other parts become suspect, the representative shall have the right to invite other manufacturers’ representatives to evaluate the lighting systems. • Shipping and Labor costs for installation of the Products are not covered under this warranty. This warranty is valid for order number: By LEDRadiant
Save the environment, your children and the planet
500 North Dixie Hwy, #8, Hollywood, FL 33020 – (844).533.7230
Contact@ledradiant.com – www.ledradiant.com |
Rate |
---|
For those of you who need to understand this new world of LED lighting, there is some vocabulary you will need to know. We have given you some terminology that will help you understand what its all about.
LED
LED stands for "light emitting diode." A diode is an electrical component with two terminals which conduct the electricity only in one direction. With an electrical current, the diode emits a bright light around the small bulb.
Lumens vs Watts
LEDs that are bright enough to replace incandescents for business that is, producing the same number of lumens as standard 40- or 60-watt bulbs---typically only use 9 to 12 watts. The U.S. Department of Energy advises that business that want to replace a 60-watt bulb should look for an LED that produces close to 800 lumens; for a 40-watt bulb, look for 450 lumens.
Ballast
In a fluorescent lighting system, the ballast regulates the current to the lamps and provides sufficient voltage to start the lamps. Without a ballast to limit its current, a fluorescent lamp connected directly to a high voltage power source would rapidly and uncontrollably increase its current draw. Within a second the lamp would overheat and burn out.
Thee are several types of ballasts,
Instant start
An instant start ballast does not preheat the electrodes, instead using a relatively high voltage (~600 V) to initiate the discharge arc. It is the most energy efficient type, but yields the fewest lamp-start cycles, as material is blasted from the surface of the cold electrodes each time the lamp is turned on. Instant-start ballasts are best suited to applications with long duty cycles, where the lamps are not frequently turned on and off.
Rapid start
A rapid start ballast applies voltage and heats the cathodes simultaneously. It provides superior lamp life and more cycle life, but uses slightly more energy as the cathodes in each end of the lamp continue to consume heating power as the lamp operates. A dimming circuit can be used with a dimming ballast, which maintains the heating current while allowing lamp current to be controlled.
Programmed start
A programmed-start ballast is a more advanced version of rapid start. This ballast applies power to the filaments first, it allows the cathodes to preheat and then applies voltage to the lamps to strike an arc. Lamp life typically operates up to 100,000 on/off cycles when using programmed start ballasts. Once started, filament voltage is reduced to increase operating efficiency.[5] This ballast gives the best life and most starts from lamps, and so is preferred for applications with very frequent power cycling such as vision examination rooms and restrooms with a motion detector switch.
Hybrid
A hybrid ballast has a magnetic core-and-coil transformer and an electronic switch for the electrode-heating circuit. Like a magnetic ballast, a hybrid unit operates at line power frequency—60 Hz in North America, for example. These types of ballasts, which are also referred to as “cathode-disconnect ballasts”, disconnect the electrode-heating circuit after they start the lamps.
HID/HPS
High Intensity Discharge bulb. These include the Metal Halide (MH) and High Presure Sodium (HPS) among other types of bulbs that use a mixture of gases that when electrically excited produce an arc that emmits light.
The color of the light depends on the gases used in the arc tube.
UL
Underwriters Laboratory is the certification which indicates that a product meets certain standards that conform with insurance company requirements for safety. An LED bulb without this designation is not of high enough quality for insurance purposes and usually indicates an inferior product.
Kwh
Kilowatt per hour is how you are billed by your electric company. There is a cost per Kwh on your electric bill.
Index A B C D E F G H I J K L M N O P R S T U V W
Hue: Describes the situation when the appearance of different colors is similar (e.g. matching blues and pinks).
Lightness: Describes a range of grayness between black and white.
Chroma: Describes the degree of departure from gray of the same lightness and increasing color (e.g. red, redder, pure red).
L70
L70 describes the brightness of an LED after a number of hours – often 50,000. If a product claims L70 after 50,000 hours, it means that after 50,000 hours of burning (nearly six years if the lights are on 24/7) the lights are now 70% as bright as they were when they were first installed. L70 doesn’t mean anything without the corresponding number of hours. You may also see terms such as L70 at 6,000 hours. Sometimes manufacturers will list L80 (or even L90) at 50,000 hours. This simply means that after 50,000 hours, the LEDs will be 80% (or 90%) as bright as they were initially. Be careful not to confuse L70 with LM79 or LM80.
This IES document applies to LED fixtures (but not to components.) It prescribes the approved method for “Electrical and Photometric Measurements of Solid-State Lighting Products.” In the beginning, LED products were the wild, wild west. Manufacturers claimed just about anything based on their own personal “test procedures.” LM79 gave structure to the chaos and today LM79 compliance can help ensure that you are comparing apples to apples when you read LED product literature.
This IES (Illuminating Engineering Society of North America)document describes the approved method for “Measuring Lumen Maintenance of LED Light Sources.” It applies to bare LED light sources and does not cover complete luminaires (fixtures.) The main story here is usable life. LED sources, like the old metal halide lamps, tend to fade over life instead of “burning out.” Again, when manufacturers are using the same test methodology, you can be comfortable when comparing products.